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Coco Chanel
Coco Chanel was a renowned French fashion designer who
founded the fashion brand ‘Chanel’. She was the first person to see style as
both, classic and casual. Chanel created timeless classics and set a high
benchmark for the fashion designers to come. She was instrumental in breaking
the stereotype and liberating woman from the stifling ‘corseted silhouette’ and
making the sporty casual chic look not only acceptable but also trendy and very
fashionable. Her extraordinary fashion sense was not just limited to couture
clothing but also reflected in fragrance, handbags and jewellery. She also was
quite a party animal and had wide network of people with whom she socialised,
built connections and did business. Chanel was ambitious, determined and
hard-working lady whose effort clearly reflected in her work. She seemed more
of an enigma and lied on many instances, masking her real age and place of
birth. Chanel and her work can be best described in her own words ‘Fashion
fades, only style remains’. This speaks volumes about what a legendary style
and fashion icon she was.
Childhood & Early Life
· Chanel was born on 19 August 1883 to an unwed mother
Eugénie Jeanne Devolle. She did not have a great childhood and grew up with
poverty surrounding her. Her mother Eugénie Jeanne Devolle was a laundry woman
in the Charity hospital run by the Sisters of Providence in Saumur, France.
· Chanel’s father Albert Chanel was a rambling street
vendor who peddled work clothes and undergarments for a living.
· When Chanel was 12, she lost her mother to bronchitis
and her father put Chanel and other daughters to the convent of Aubazine in
Central France. Chanel had a tough time in Aubazine, as it was a demanding
place, and thus she fled from there to boarding house for Catholic girls in the
town of Moulins.
Career
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§ Although Chanel did not have a pleasant stay at
Aubazine, it did do a little good to her eventually. She did a lot of sewing
sewing in the six years that she stayed in Aubazine which earned her a job as a
seamstress.
§ In her free time, she used to sing in cabaret
frequented by cavalry officers. During this time she made her stage debut
singing at a café concert in a Moulins pavilion, La Rotonde and she acquired
the name ‘Coco’, because of the two songs she sang which she became identified,
"Ko Ko Ri Ko", and "Qui qu'a vu Coco", or it was an allusion
to the French word for kept woman, cocotte.
§ In 1906, she went to the spa resort town of Vichy and
tried her best to become a stage performer but soon realized that a stage
career was not her cup of tea and thus she returned to Moulins.
§ It was Captain Arthur Edward Capel, her love affair,
who was instrumental in helping Chanel set-up her first shop. Capel, himself
being a well-dressed man influenced the conception of the Chanel look.
§ The design of Chanel’s signature scent ‘Chanel 5’ drew
inspiration from knick-knacks carried by Capel. It was either the rectangular,
bevelled lines of the Charvet toiletry bottles Capel carried in his leather
traveling case or the exquisite design of the whiskey decanter.
§ In 1913, Chanel with the help of Arthur Capel, who
financed her, opened a boutique in Deauville. She introduced a range of casual
clothes and sportswear. The boutique at Deauville became quite successful.
§ Inspired by this, she opened one such boutique in
Biaritzz, in 1915. Subsequently Biaritzz did very well for Chanel.
§ By 1919, she was registered as a couturiere and
established her maison de couture at 31 rue Cambon. She had the whole building
of 31 rue Cambon in one of the most fashionable districts of Paris.
§ With time Chanel's business empire flourished and by
1935 she employed four thousand people. But during the late 1930s her business
began to dip. other designers such as, Elsa Schiaparelli began to make their
mark and the beginning of World War II, forced Chanel to close her shops.
§ During the World War II, she was accused of being a
Nazi spy. In 1945, after the end of the War, Chanel moved to Switzerland,
eventually returning to Paris in 1954. She reopened her couture house in Paris,
in 1954. But her new collection wasn’t well received by Parisians as the taint
of being a Nazi spy continued to haunt her. However, her designs were well
received by the British and the Americans.
Major Works
§ Chanel’s signature scent ‘Chanel 5’ is an iconic
product in the perfume world and is fancied by most big celebrities and also
common people.
§ The legendary concept of the little black dress is
often cited as a Chanel’s contribution to the fashion lexicon. This became
Chanel’s fashion trademark.
§ The iconic Chanel bag, also known as ‘2.55’, name
after the date of the bag’s creation (February 1955) made bag more of a style
statement and a luxurious product apart from it being a necessity for women.
§ The famous ‘Chanel suit’ specially tailored for women
encouraged women to pursue their professional goals in style.
Awards & Achievements
§ Chanel is the only fashion designer who features on
Time magazine's list of the 100 most influential people of the 20th century.
Personal Life & Legacy
§ She was romantically involved with French ex-cavalry
officer Etienne Balsan and became his mistress at the age of 23. She was
showered and pampered by his riches in the form of diamonds, pearls and
dresses.
§ Chanel’s personal life was full of controversies.
According to a biography ‘Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life’ André Palasse,
supposedly the only child of her sister Julia-Berthe who had committed suicide,
was actually Chanel's child by Balsan.
§ Later in 1908, Chanel had an affair with Balsan’s
friend Captain Arthur Edward Boy Capel.
§ Capel was found having an affair and also married an
English aristocrat but never completely broke off with Chanel. When Capel died
in a car accident, in 1919, Chanel was shattered. She confided to a good friend
as ‘His death was a terrible blow to me. In losing Capel, ‘I lost everything.
What followed was not a life of happiness, I have to say’.
§ In Biarritzz, Chanel had a romantic interlude with an
aristocrat Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich of Russia.
§ Chanel died on 10 January 1971 at Hotel Ritz where she
lived for 30 years. Her funeral was organized at eglise de la Madeleine and the
first seats were occupied by her fashion models. Her grave is located in the
Bois-de-Vaux Cemetery, Lausanne, Switzerland.
Trivia
§ Chanel was caught lying about herself on several
occasions. She was born in the workhouse in the Loire Valley where her mother worked,
although she asserted that she was born in Auvergne. She also claimed that she
was born ten years laterto what people actually
thought.
§ Chanel also claimed that when her mother died, her
father sent her off two mean cold-hearted aunts but in reality she was sent to
Aubazine, a home for orphaned and abandoned girls.
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